A Recent History
By now, the Wart Zapper has quite a history behind it. Three different  embodiments have been published in three major magazines. It has gone  into production in South Africa, and (without my having read the  technical details) an embodiment would seem to have gone into production  in the USA. In the latter case, it has been advertised also as a cure  for cold sores. A major company approached me with a view to  manufacture. However, the medical trials and approvals seemed to be too  much of a hurdle for me to want to further pursue that avenue.
The  Wart Zapper's record has been good. I have received many letters  confirming its efficacy -- not to speak of the results that I have  witnessed first hand. One writer had a problem getting his unit to work,  and I "walked him through" the problems. He replied: "I did another set  of 'zaps', and wow!! As per the article, about 3 minutes in, a small  wart on my thumb suddenly got quite sore (which I bore with dignity). Et  voila!! After about 5 minutes there was a tiny hole burnt in it. This  has now formed a hard layer, and I am confident its wave function has  collapsed."
A few people had some difficulty obtaining a result at first. This was  always where a wart was both large and "dry". In one or two cases, the  problem was solved by soaking the wart in the bath, then applying the  Wart Zapper. This is also covered below.
Wart Removal
As improbable as it may seem, the common wart may be destroyed with a  simple circuit that uses a small 9V PP3 battery delivering a boosted 25V  to the skin. Taking into account the resistance of the skin, this  translates to just 100µA or so passing through the wart internally, thus  delivering a fraction (about one-third) of the peak power delivered by a  typical TENS unit. That is, a typical wart may be destroyed with the  power that a pocket torch uses in the blink of an eye.
Warts are one of the most common maladies of humankind, yet are often  one of the most awkward to cure. In the past, warts were removed by  means of curettage (that is, cutting them out), or by burning them off  -- sometimes with a hot coal. Often they were simply left alone. One of  the more famous quotes of Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector of England,  was, "Paint me warts and all, or not at all!" Due to the habit of warts  of suddenly and inexplicably disappearing, it was sometimes thought that  charms might effect the cure.
Today, there are three lines of attack to remove warts:
Perhaps the most common is the dreaded liquid nitrogen treatment (also  called cryosurgery). However, not only is this messy and painful -- it  may in many cases augment the treated warts, or do permanent damage to  the skin -- particularly to darker skin.
Chemical treatment is often a long, slow, messy process which requires  perseverence and care -- and even then, success is not guaranteed. This  may also be couter-productive, and generally cannot be used on the face.
A third method, which is often used in clinics today, is  electrodesiccation (or sometimes, "radio frequency thermal ablation") --  that is, burning off warts electrically with several Watts of power.  This is tidy, quick, and effective, yet it tends to be expensive, and  requires specialist attention. Therefore it is likely to lie beyond the  means of people who live in poorer circumstances, or in more remote  areas of the world.
What is significantly new about the circuit shown here is that it brings  wart removal within the scope of every amateur electronics constructor,  using some one thousand times less power than electrodesiccation. For  the price of a doctor's consultation for the dreaded liquid nitrogen  treatment, or for the price of a single session of electrodesiccation,  several Wart Zappers could be built.
The single 9V PP3 battery used by this circuit should be capable of  destroying a many warts. In trials, the Wart Zapper proved to be close  to 100% effective for the so-called common wart, on condition that this  was not too large (that is, if it was less than 5mm across it at its  widest point). In particular, the Wart Zapper was very effctive with  warts on the hands, which are often the most difficult to remove by  other methods. Larger warts may by all means be treated, but these may  prove to be more awkward to remove.
Medical History
During the 1950's, Dr. John Crane experimented with the treatment of  harmful microbes with electrical pulses. This followed experiments in  the 1930's by Dr. Royal Raymond Rife, who used electromagnetic pulses,  which yielded some remarkable results. Dr. Rife's original interest was  in the design of microscopes, and his discovery of the effects of  electromagnetic radiation on microbes came purely by accident as he  sought to illuminate specimens under his ever more powerful microscopes.
In short, Dr. Crane claimed to have established that harmful microbes,  if pulsed with a small current at a specific frequency, will resonate,  thus destroying the microbes, while leaving healthy tissues intact.
Since warts are known to be caused by a group of common viruses, the  present design uses a frequency close to one established by Dr. Crane  for the treatment of the "wart virus" (21.27kHz). This is used here with  suitable voltage and current. It has since been questioned whether Dr.  Crane's frequencies are at all significant, or whether any frequencies  within a few hundred or even thousand Hertz would work just as well.  However, Dr. Crane's original frequency it is, with the important  difference that it is applied here directly to a wart, rather than being  used as a treatment for the virus.
It is interesting to note that Dr. Crane's frequencies for cancer  (sarcoma and carcinoma) lie close to those for the wart virus. This  raises the possibility that the Wart Zapper might work for certain  cancers. In fact it was tested on a less aggressive form of skin cancer  under the eye of a specialist, and it successfully destroyed the cancer.  However, the Wart Zapper would not be recommended in such cases, since  one cannot afford to take chances with personal experiments on cancers.
The Wart Zapper originally came about by accident. I was experimenting  with Crane frequencies to treat a superficial infection that had eluded  antibiotics. With a lot of guesswork as to what voltage or current to  apply, the treatment was surprisingly and entirely successful -- yet  caused a little damage to the skin. What if, I thought, Dr. Crane's  frequencies would cause similar damage to warts?
My first prototype yielded patchy results, but these were sufficiently  hopeful to know that they were significant. Four successive prototypes  were tested on several volunteers, including medical professionals, with  the final prototype achieving close to 100% success with the common  wart (a brown or skin-coloured, rough wart), as well as some success  with other types of wart, such as the plane wart. The Wart Zapper's high  success rate does not of course guarantee that it will work in every  case. However, it does offer reason for hope that the device would be  effective in a great many cases.
Note that, although the Wart Zapper was developed on the theories of Dr.  John Crane, and although I have my own "best guess theory" as to why it  works, at least five different theories have been put forward as to why  it works -- see the sidebar.
Safety and Caution
Despite the very small currents used by this circuit, little is  understood about the effects of electricity on the human body, and the  Wart Zapper should be used with this caution in mind.
During experiments, I was surprised by the profound effect that  miniscule currents may have on the human body. When I was still seeking  to establish the correct "exposure" required to destroy a wart, I caused  significant damage to a fingernail 7 cm (nearly 3") distant. Similarly,  related devices which are used to treat viral infections have been said  on occasion to cause e.g. stiffness in a finger joint.
These are rare and relatively minor side-effects, yet it should be borne  in mind that the Wart Zapper is capable of doing some damage if  misused. Therefore the voltage, current, frequency, and duration of  treatment described in this article should not be rashly modified. More  than a year's experimentation, and even more "field experience", lies  behind this design, and most if not all of the mistakes have hopefully  been made.
The Circuit
The Wart Zapper uses a single CMOS 7555 oscillator (IC1), for dual  purposes, as follows:
First, it pumps up a standard voltage tripler circuit, represented by  the capacitor-diode network to the right of IC1 in the circuit diagram.  This takes the voltage up to about 25V, if not a little more. The  purpose of increasing the voltage is to overcome the resistance of the  skin. According to the well known formula I=V/R, if V (voltage) is  increased, while R (resistance -- in this case skin resistance) remains  the same, I (current) increases proportionately.
Second, the oscillator switches power MOSFET TR1 at the required  frequency, to pulse the raised voltage through the skin by means of two  electrodes. One of these electrodes is positive (+25V -- called the  dispersive electrode, and marked D. This may either be a metal grip held  in the hand, or a metal plate applied to a large(ish) area of skin near  a wart. The other electrode is negative (0V -- called the active  electrode, and marked A). This is a sharp(ish) metal point which is used  for direct contact with the wart. The 470k potentiometer VR1 is  inserted into the dispersive electrode's lead to prevent the possibility  of a brief electrical jolt at switch-on, or on first applying the  active electrode to a wart.
After much experimentation, I settled on a 25V 21kHz square wave (the  circuit will approach this to within about 10%), applied to a wart for  five minutes. I found that pulses of a minimum 1mW power passing through  the wart internally were required to achieve any effect, and that  3mW-6mW pulses were adequate (compare this with the approximately 2W  required to illuminate a pocket torch)!
Current across the probes is limited by R3 to less than 3mA, to protect  the circuit if these should be short-circuited. One needs also to factor  in the conductivity of the flesh, which rarely falls below about 200k  -- therefore little more than 100µA, or at most about 200µA, would  course through the wart itself.
Zener diode ZD1, together with LED D1 and resistor R1, serve as a simple  "battery low" indicator. LED D1 will normally glow dimly, and this must  be a green LED -- it is chosen for its so-called forward voltage drop,  which differs from that of other coloured LEDs. If this LED goes out,  then the battery is flat, and needs to be replaced. C1 serves as a  supply decoupling capacitor, and S1 as an on-off switch.
Construction
The Wart Zapper (see Fig.2) is  built on a printed circuit board (PCB)  measuring approximately 60mm x  44mm (2.5" x 1.8"). The prototype used a  case measuring approximately  100mm x 60mm x 22mm (4" x 2.5" x 1")  externally.
Begin by soldering the six solder pins to the PCB. Solder the four   resistors, the six capacitors (observing the polarity of electrolytic   C1), the Zener diode, the five remaining diodes (including LED D1), and   power MOSFET TR1. Then solder the battery leads as shown. The positive   lead is taken via switch S1. Be sure to connect the leads the right way   round, since a mistake here could destroy the circuit.
Fix the PCB to the bottom  of the case, perhaps with some epoxy glue. A  hole is prepared in the  case for LED D1, which may be wired directly to  the PCB, depending on  the layout of the case. The cathode (k) of D1 is  identified with a  "flat" on the side of its encapsulation. Mount on-off  switch S1 on the  case. 
 Attach a long, plastic  sheathed wire to the dispersive electrode (a  metal grip or metal  plate), and pass this wire through a hole in the  case. Make sure that  there is sound electrical contact between the wire  and the metal grip  or plate. Take the free end of this wire to 470k  potentiometer VR1, and  wire the potentiometer to the PCB as shown. If  the potentiometer is  viewed from underneath with the terminal pins  facing towards you, the  two terminal pins on the right need to be wired  to each other. 
Then attach a long, plastic insulated wire to the active electrode (a   sharp pin -- but not too sharp -- the end may be filed flat), and pass   this wire through a hole in the case, soldering it also to the PCB as   shown. The pin should be inserted in a suitable plastic shaft so that it   is not directly touched when treating a wart. Finally, insert and   solder IC1 on the PCB, observing anti-static precautions (touch your   body to ground before handling, e.g. to a metal tap). 
In  Use
Removing warts has never been much fun, and the use  of the Wart Zapper  is likely to be painful -- but only briefly, and not  too much (as  hinted at in the constructor's letter above). 
Considerable  experimentation preceded the development of this circuit,  and, as  mentioned, the results gave me a new respect for the potential  risks of  electricity, however small the voltages and currents that are  applied.  Skin resistance can vary between about 100k and 10M, depending  on the  day and the situation. Therefore, to ensure consistency of  results, skin  resistance needs to be kept relatively low. Use a little  skin  moisturiser where the skin makes contact with the dispersive  electrode,  as well as a little moisturiser on the wart itself. 
Constructors  are advised not to use the circuit where current would  flow across the  head or the heart, and never during pregnancy, or where  a person uses a  pacemaker, or has any history of epilepsy. These are  standard safety  recommendations for TENS devices, which incidentally  use some three  times the peak power of the Wart Zapper.
If treating a wart e.g.  on the lower or upper arm, hold a metal grip  (the dispersive electrode)  in the same hand. If it is not convenient to  use a grip, rest the limb  to be treated (e.g. a foot) on a metal plate  instead, which is again  connected as the dispersive electrode. The  active electrode -- that is,  the sharp(ish) metal point -- is rested  directly and gently on the top  of the wart. If treating a slightly  larger wart (say more than 4mm at  its widest point), it might be an  idea to tackle one or the other side  of it first, since the Wart Zapper  is unlikely to kill it all at once. 
Switch  on, apply the Wart Zapper to a wart for up to five minutes (see  above),  then switch off. Potentiometer VR1 is used to turn up the power  slowly  to full after switching on -- however, for the brave, it may be  turned  up full immediately. Be prepared suddenly to experience perhaps  half a  minute of sharp pain. If you do not see this through until the  pain  subsides (which it will), the wart may not be destroyed.
Experience  and Qualifications
Although most common warts were  ultimately removed by the Wart Zapper,  it was found that there were some  differences in the effect that the  device had. 
In several cases,  a wart was obliterated first time, never to return.  These were usually  small common warts about 2mm to 4mm at their widest  point. However, with  close constellations of warts (at first glance  looking like a single  wart), or with larger warts, the wart was  sometimes destroyed in part,  but needed follow-up treatments to destroy  it all. 
In most cases,  little or no pain was experienced when the Wart Zapper  was first  applied, although one subject jumped when the device was  first switched  on, and another -- a dentist -- suggested a means of  controlling the  power at switch-on. This is taken care of in the  present design with a  potentiometer which the patient may slowly turn  up once the so-called  active electrode is resting on the wart. In most  cases, however, this  potentiometer would not be missed. 
After a certain period of  painlessness, which varied from about half a  minute to three-and-a-half  minutes, subjects suddenly felt a burning or  even a "spine-chilling"  pain, inside and under the wart. This pain  only lasts about half a  minute, then subsides. However, it is necessary  for the removal of the  wart, and needs to be "stuck out". When the  pain has subsided (or after  five minutes, whichever may come first),  the probe is removed. 
Be  more careful with facial warts, since facial skin is delicate.  Rather  under-treat such a wart than over-treat it. You may always  return to it  again later.
Once a wart has been treated, it should immediately  be apparent that it  is "just not the same". In fact in many cases, the  wart melted with a  fizzle even before the treatment was over. The skin  immediately  surrounding the wart may be irritated for a few hours, and  there may be  a slight swelling close to the wart. Ultimately a scab may  form. Don't  ever remove a wart too soon, or break its surface, or even  agitate it,  since this could leave a deep wound, and there could be  infection. If  it is left alone, there should be no infection. If a  treatment should  have little or no effect, it would be sensible to  consult a doctor.
While this circuit comes with no guarantees, it  is no doubt a case  nothing ventured, nothing gained! With the help of  several willing  "guinea-pigs", and further volunteers queuing up, I  found that the Wart  Zapper was entirely successful most of the time.
Alternate PCB View 
Theory and  Practise
According to the original theory of Dr. John Crane, alien cells (such as   viruses) begin to resonate when bombarded with a specific electrical   frequency. Normal chemical processes at the cell boundary are thereby   disrupted, or the cell ruptures, thus killing the cell. Healthy tissues   are left almost entirely unscathed. 
However, this is not the only  theory in the running. By way of a  process of elimination, I followed  up further suggestions put to me by  researcher Aubrey Scoon:
1.  Electrolysis (a "flat" DC voltage). This also did significant damage  to  warts - however, it also did immediate, superficial damage to  healthy  tissues, and the experiment was not repeated. The conclusion is  that  electrolysis may contribute to the destruction of warts, but it  does not  offer an adequate explanation for the Wart Remover's success.
2.  Iontophoresis. This is the leaching of ions into a wart, which   effectively kills the wart by poisoning. However, after experimenting   with a variety of conductive electrodes, as well as graphite (all the   electrodes were tried with success), this theory was safely ruled out. 
3.  The stimulation of immunomodulatory chemicals. The theory is that  these  chemicals, when stimulated by an electrical frequency, attack the  wart  and destroy it. However, this would be hard to explain in light  of the  spectacular destruction of some warts. In some cases, the Wart   Eliminator appeared to explode wart cells, and this could on occasion   even be heard! Finally,
4. Frictional heating. Ionic agitation may  raise the temperature within  a wart, causing tissue coagulation. While I  had no way of testing this  theory, I thought it unlikely.  Electrodesiccation typically raises the  temperature within a wart above  47°C, and this requires a few Watts of  power. Since the Wart Remover  pulses just one-thousandth as much power  through a wart, this  possibility would seem less probable. 
Parts List
Qty    Part
1 Copper clad  board 60mm x 44mm (2.5" x 1.8")
1 9V PP3 "matchbox" battery
1  Battery clip for battery - or suitable case with internal battery   terminals
1 Panel mounting on-off switch
1 Suitable ABS  plastic case approx. 100mm x 60mm x 22mm (4" x 2.5" x  1") external
1  1 metre (1 yard) plastic shielded wire for the electrodes
1 15 cm  (6") long brass tube for the dispersive electrode
1 Needle sharp  tip filed off - for the active electrode
1 8-pin dual-in-line  (DIL) socket (not required for experienced  constructors)
6 Solder  pins
1 Etchant if a PCB needs to be etched
1 Solder
Semiconductors
1 6.8V Zener diode (¼-Watt is  adequate)
1 Green LED (no other colour)
4 1N4148 signal  diodes
1 IRF610 power "logic" MOSFET (alternatively IRF510, BUZ11,  BUZ22)
1 7555 CMOS timer IC
Resistors
2 1k ¼-Watt carbon or metal film
1  47k ¼-Watt carbon or metal film
1 10k ¼-Watt crbon or metal film
1  470k or 500k potentiometer, carbon track or conductive plastic
1  Knob for potentiometer
Capacitors
1 680pF polyester or ceramic
2  100nF polyester or ceramic
2 220nF polyester or ceramic
1  100µF electrolytic 16V or higher
author: Thomas Scarborough
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web site: http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk